Please note: The colour image is as close a representation that we can provide, please consult our instore colour guide for the true representation.

Deka L Dye 26 Salmon (Lachs) Hot Water Dye for All Natural Fabric (Not for use on Synthetics)

Weigh fabric to be dyed, then wash and rinse to remove sizing, fabric softener etc.

Batiking: 10gm is sufficient for 125gm fabric (dryweight).

Dissolve dye and 1 Tb salt in 2-3 litres boiling water, stir well.

For silk or wool, also add 4-6 Tb vinegar

For wax batik, lower dyebath to 50°C. Dampen fabric, then put loosely (unfolded) into dyebath for 15-30 min, stirring frequently. Results from dyeing are dependent on amount of powder in dyebath, amount of dyeing time, temp. of the dyebath, and fabric used, as well as other factors.

Insufficient water will cause dyebath to gel. Remove fabric and rinse thoroughly under cold running water until rinse water runs clear.

General Dyeing: 10gm is sufficient for 250gm fabric (dryweight).

Dissolve dye and 2 Tb salt in 4-5 litre boiling water, stir well.

For silk or wool, also add 8-10 Tb vinegar. Continue with same directions as above. For best results, keep dyebath at highest temp. suited to fabric, max 90° C.

To dye a deep black, use more concentrated dyebath, longer dyeing time, and highest temperature possible.

Care of Dyed Articles: Always treat pieces requiring frequent cleaning with DEKA Series L Fixative 50-00. They may then be machine washed in cool water (85° F/30°C) on gentle setting. Wash separately first few washes.

Avoid direct skin contact with dye powder. Avoid inhaling dust. When working with DEKA-Series L, wear rubber gloves. In rare cases, direct skin contact with dye might lead to allergic reaction. Keep dye powder out of the reach of children.

Necessary Materials

Deka L Dye 26 Salmon (Lachs), A-frame or stretching frame, thumb tacks, bristle brush, rubber gloves, (wooden) stick/spoon for stirring, white fabric of either silk, linen, batiste, cotton or muslin material.

Be careful to eliminate all spots before starting. Spots cannot be removed once they have been "dyed over". Also, be aware that fabric which has been stored for a long period of time may have stains or water marks which are not visible, unfortunately, until after dyeing. The same is true of fabric areas which have been worn away; although these areas will absorb the dye, they will often appear darker than the rest of the fabric.

Tie-dyeing

A favourite batik technique is tie -dyeing. Instead of covering areas with wax, you simply tie them with twine or rubberbands to keep them from absorbing dye. Once this is done, you soak the project in a dyebath which can be brought to a higher temperature than in the wax batik process. You may also repeat this process as often as you please; the same rules for dyeing apply as described in the wax batik segment above. Additional information about tie-dyeing can be found in our pamphlet "DEKA -Series L textile dye ... perfect for tie-dye and batik!"

Post-dyeing Treatment

To remove the wax from your project, place it between sheets of unprinted ab sorbent paper such as newsprint or blotting paper and iron it evenly. Replace the paper continuously, until all the wax has been removed. For larger pieces, you may want to bring them to the dry cleaners, to have the wax removed chemically. Once all of the wax has been eliminated, place the project into the bath of fixative 111/L in order to improve the washability of the project. All projects dyed with DEKA-Series L should be washed separately.

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